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30 June 2010 @ 09:07 pm
Sleeve time  
Thanks for all the nice comments on my bodice draft! :D I can't wait to get started on the real thing...

I got my initial sleeve draft done and I just need to pattern it now.

I'll be doing a full write-up with pics when I do the real one, this was just to get the pattern, but it was fairly easy. I started with a rectangle bigger than I needed of organza, with the bottom of the sleeve being a selvage edge. I folded that up just once to make an elastic casing. I used 1/4" on this, but I'm going to use 3/8" blue bra strap elastic when I do my final. I put in 3 1/4" tucks, 1/2" apart and ironed facing down. I then took a rectangle of the point d'esprit and stitched it underneath the bottom-most tuck as close to the stitch line as I could, and then stitched the two fabrics together for ease of working. At that point I lined it up with my bodice draft and guestimated how much poof it would have. I over-estimated, hence the tuck in the draft. It has almost no poof at all. I was just guessing on my cartridge pleating, I marked out about 10.5" and it pleated down about right, I got about 3" of pleating on the top of the sleeve. For the cartridge pleating, I took a 3" high, 10.5" wide strip of the point d'esprit, folded it over 3 times, and applied it to where I was going to pleat. This was to add a bit of body to the pleats. I hand-sewed 4 rows of 1/8" stitches 1/4" apart to form the cartridge pleats. Once I had that in, I lined up where the pleating matches up at the top, pinned the bottom of the sleeve where it whould sit (the top tuck should meet the top of side front/back respectively), and tucked out the excess. I'm going to form my pattern based on that, but how it sits all depends on the tightness of the gathers, top and bottom, so this draft tells me sleeve height, but I plan to leave it a bit wide for fiddling room. And if that made no sense, I'll eventually post a step-by-step with pictures ;)